The French Cafe: Endangered Species?
Le cafe is in trouble. This week saw French president Emmanuel Macron stepping in with €150 million to rescue French cafe culture. La Parisien estimates that the number of cafes and bars in France has declined rapidly…
France & Femicide
France recorded its 100th case of femicide this year at the beginning of the month. With one of the highest rates of female murders perpetrated by partners, ex partners or male family members in Europe, it’s estimated…
Happy Birthday Les Halles (& me)
This week I’m sharing a birthday with Les Halles. Albeit from a distance. I’m back in the UK for work. My first few eventful days home have been punctuated by plans to suspend parliament for a month.…
The Wallace Fountains of Paris
Iconic emerald green, cast iron Wallace fountains are peppered around Parisian streets and parks. Designed and financed by an Englishman, a Francophile at that, these Neo Renaissance style fountains wear the name of Sir Richard Wallace. Way…
Early Morning Market on Rue Ordener
Stalls are setting up to a symphony of clanking, banging, rustling and the turning of trolley wheels. The twice weekly fermentation of noise and frenzied motion signals one thing, market day on Rue Ordener. Setting up for…
Place du Tertre
Place du Tertre. This small, unassuming square, is the aorta of historic Montmartre village. A tangle of narrow, winding, cobbled arteries, lead towards it’s centre. For decades the Place du Tertre has been synonymous with artists, writers,…
La Belle Epoque & Anarchy
Two doors down from my apartment is the site of the world’s first recorded grand theft auto bank robbery at the Société Générale (and I wonder why people are afraid to go north of the Sacre Coeur). 1911…
Paris Scams, Swindles & Cons
Ah Paris. The wide, leafy boulevards. The street cafes illuminating the pavements late into the night. The couture (not really my thing, but I hear it’s très popular with some). The magic of that rose light, washing…
The Bench
Floor to ceiling, my balcony windows frame the perfect view of a small, shaded corner of Serpollet Square. The Sacre Coeur flanks the park to the left, an assorted pile of higgledy piggledy flats and houses tumble…
Street Homeless in Paris
Bare cracked feet protrude from a pair of frayed, too short trousers. Ankles and calves exposed, a man stretches out, asleep on the hard, warm concrete. An ornate, elegant Guimard art nouveau Metro sign towers above him,…
